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Endings

Been waving in the last few weeks between excitement and anxiety, as I prepare to leave for IamResilience, a creative-therapeutic pilot project working with children and women in a Syrian refugee camp in Lebanon. There’s generally very little for me to go by in terms of regional case studies, mixing the creative arts with therapy, where the work is not artistic, for example, I don’t leave with a play or a film to show, and neither is it therapy per say. The intention is helping to relieve a portion of the anxieties these dislocated peoples would have gone through, in finding themselves in a refugee camp… actually no, it’s not even to deal with the traumatic events, it’s to begin with their current state of being in a refugee camp. I expect to work with healthy people who have gone through traumatic experiences, rather than psychologically traumatised individuals. I’m not interested in talking about the project itself- I plan to write shorter blogs on the Meryna website as I go along- what I do want to share are a few reflections on the therapy training, and my personal unpacking, that have come to mind recently. 

First, thinking back to Laura Perls quote: the difference between anxiety and excitement is breath (something along those lines). I’ve been reminded of this fine line between the two states, and how both have been valuable to acknowledge. 

Second, noticing how I have approached Ending my time in London- I’m away for three months and a half, so it’s not forever (hopefully!)- and reflecting on the Gestalt therapy training from last year, particularly with our therapist/ tutor Kay Lynn, who dedicated  ample time and space for Ending our year of the course. At the time, initially at least, I thought it excessive; this was after all a one-year course, that was coming to an end, and that was that. I had done what I always did with endings: gone to the future. I was thinking of what I will be doing next, planning ahead, and generally looking forward, whilst Kay Lynn saw this as opportunity to notice how we deal with endings. She strongly invited the class to stay present, to find ways that help us commemorate the end before welcoming a new beginning. 

This is where I have been- with a varying degree of awareness, and largely intuition leading this process- I’ve noticed I have done things I would never have done a few years ago. Making sure I finish business as much as possible, from my work commitments of setting-up Meryna, completing art and freelance work to fixing a broken loo! Making time to meet friends and peers, to catch-up, and even having a leaving-drinks at a local place for a small group of friends… this is all very new to me. I don’t even celebrate my birthday collectively, with any group of people, let alone a work trip abroad! 

So in reflecting on this, I feel that only now, on the day I am departing, I am beginning to look forward. Of course, I have been preparing for the future, in terms of consulting with project partners in Lebanon and specialists here, my therapeutic supervisor and the supervision group, but this is different. Staying present for me has been about a coming together, collecting myself, before leaving. I feel appreciative of these rituals, societal and personal, which help commemorate endings and welcome new beginnings.

At the last Gestalt therapy residential weekend, where much of the Ending work happened, I had a mini-collapse towards the end. After deflecting and resisting, I touched on the lack of any form of commemoration in leaving Iraq, my first home. That ending was never acknowledged at any point, before leaving (we’d not planned to stay in the UK) nor after arriving (not knowing if we will be staying for the first five years or more!). Our process, as a family, was just to move forward, and I believe that’s what was needed at the time, and yet it is amazing to be able to acknowledge that now. 

Of course I think of the people I will be meeting in Lebanon, and if my ending with my homeland was abrupt, then what must theirs have been like? And I wonder how the therapeutic work will be around this lack of ending, and reflecting on a more stable time; remembering the rituals and commemorations that formed part of the norm (individually and collectively) and what has remained. These things that help make us who we are, which have since been displaced. 

I’ve just been reminded of the importance of identifying what is working well, in context of IamR, not simply what has been lost or the difficulties of life at the refugee camo. This reminder came from Renos Papadopoulos, who has generally advised and informed the proposed plan for IamR. Renos’s incredible work emphasises the range of responses to trauma, particularly associated with forced migration etc., and to remember that refugees are essentially people who have been dislocated and are in the process of relocation. Their responses as individuals will be as rich and diverse as yours or mine would be… this all seems incredibly basic, and yet so easily forgotten. 

So now, I’ll make my second cup of tea of the day, and carry on with my pre-travel chores. 

Loving this rainy London weather, as I know I will miss it in South Lebanon’s scalding and humid summer heat!  

 

Stranger Danger

Struggling to work a ticket machine at the airport, I asked a man for help. Turned out he had a spare ticket to the nearest underground station, and was in a rush for a meeting, so we rushed together to catch the train. Chatted on the way, mainly on cultural differences and London life, and parted ways with: it was sincerely wonderful to meet you.

He could have asked me out, and this would have been a romantic story. Alas, he didn’t. Nor had I thought of the possibility at the time.

It was the sheer joy of connecting. The world seemed that little bit smaller, closer and more together.

I spent last week at an annual meditation workshop in Madrid, and in a post-session snack one evening, two friends (Delphine and Laurie) and I set ourselves a challenge:

Who can speak to more strangers in the coming year?

This was rooted in discussing whether or not to connect with people on public transport. Laurie shared his fruitless attempts on the subway in New York, compared to Delphine’s lack of attempts on the metro in Paris and then my rare and random chats on the tube in London.

We discussed how we’d collate evidence of our meetings, and what constitutes a connection- does my having a transient greeting on my bike to a pedestrian, or fellow cyclist, count? No, according to the majority. So a conversation, a connection, that’s the challenge.

Ironically, a Spanish woman, a stranger, in the very place we were eating, came to ask us who were and what we were doing in Madrid… and this lady ended up attending the next two days worth of workshops with us!

And like a seed, this intention came into fruition, soon as I hit UK soil.

I’ve spoken at length to another stranger yesterday, at a random snack bar in Shoreditch, where I was grabbing a plate of rice and curry for lunch… this time we chose to exchange contacts, as our professional worlds may have overlaps…again this felt good.

At the same cafe, I talked to the lady who cooked the curry, at the same cafe, who told me about her love of farming on her allotment, and how 16 of her beloved chickens were hunted in one night by a stealthy fox…turned out that she runs two charities in Thailand for blind people and elderly women, and I could have spoken with her for a lot longer, had I not chosen to run (well, cycle) to a meeting, so I promised to be back again soon… and I will be.

London felt nothing like the vast and lonely world I had originally gotten to accept. As people- as animals!- we want to connect. I want to connect.

Also yesterday, a woman working at reception, told me how she felt shaken after an incident at the weekend: her mobile phone had been snatched from her hands, and how no one from the busy street even dared look in her direction. That’s the kind of interaction with strangers that I hear more about. Didn’t dare share Talking to Strangers challenge.

In fact, when I first moved to London to live with my mother at my grandparents’ home, I was pretty much scare-mongered into avoiding any contact with strangers: “People will kidnap and rape you in broad daylight, and no one will dare come to your rescue!”

I accept that my grandparents were strangers themselves to London, and in turn, London was a strange place to them, so they needed to protect themselves, and wanted to extend that protection to their family.

Still, I exercise caution, and I want to explore ways of bursting my individual bubble. Less on the underground or bus, as I have mentioned, I’ve become a keen cyclist, so I rely on other random encounters.

Please know, I do not go out of my way to talk to strangers. Far from it! I just keep open to the possibility of mutual connection.

There’s still the question of evidence: how will I prove that these interactions really happened. The thought of asking the man I met at the airport to pose for a selfie crossed my mind, but I didn’t have the bottle to implement this genius idea… other ideas are welcome!

White British Working Class

Thinking about how to listen to minority voices, and by minority I don’t mean what’s defined as ethnically, religiously or culturally a minority in the UK, but a broader definition of minority to mean people with opinions or beliefs that do not conform to the wider society. Specifically, those who believe: foreigners are scroungers, rude with no manners, take our homes and jobs, can’t speak English etc. These are the people we, as a society, need to listen to, and I will explain why.
These particular comments were listed on a slide, part of a talk at a conference I just attended at Centre for Social Relations at Coventry University. The speaker had researched a particular area in the UK (to remain nameless here), interviewed two groups of people: white working class and Muslims (possibly an odd categorisation, but let’s skip past that bit too for now). Without going into the study itself, these quotes stood out for me. I saw these are as experiences, stories, even facts, in the perceptual sense; this person truly believes in these statements. I heard these presented in a familiar, somewhat mocking way, as belonging to an uninformed, politically incorrect opinions of underprivileged community members, with an underlying message: this is what we are dealing with, so what to do to fix them?

I believe in innate human creativity. To me, that’s a fact. If not the statement itself, the belief in the statement is fact. If I was told this is wrong, or that I mustn’t believe or express this belief in public, for fear of persecution or marginalisation, well, I don’t know how I would feel about this. I accept that my belief sits amongst other beliefs that may or may not agree with mine, and that’s OK, for both me and society as a whole (as far as I’m aware!). So that’s what I’m with: how can we listen and include these minority voices in society? And I refer to them as minority voices, because I choose to believe they are a minority.

We seem to feel, in the media and on the whole, self-righteously that these statements are to be mocked, educated and possibly eradicated, for the greater social good. There’s a danger if we as a society, the greater community, do not listen; cannot find a way of some form of dialogue, where these voices are heard- not just seen to be heard- and then, only then, can we engage these voices with the other minority groups, and work on framing these beliefs alongside the majority’s. If all we’re doing is saying: you are wrong, politically incorrect, offensive, unhelpful etc. then we risk extremists in power dragging this section of society into a hole, where we cannot access them for a very long time, or ever.

At the particular area researched, at the aforementioned presentation, the researcher noted strong support for the BNP. I don’t believe that’s the reason for the statement, I believe the BNP and their equivalents, took the role of empathic listener. Whilst the majority, including the media, lumped this community as ‘white working class’, the BNP listened to them as unhappy individuals, as an integral part of the community, as people who need attention. And we all need attention when we are unhappy, so a Gold Star to the BNP. Yet, societies as a whole has made these unhappy citizens into easy prey for political party’s agenda, which can only benefit from pushing these statements further towards the extreme, and implement the beliefs into action.
I parallel this with extreme Islamic groups, like Al-Muhajiroun, who tap into unhappy youth, possibly as the name indicates, lacking a sense of belonging. Unhappy citizen is listened to, passionately fed a purpose, a way forward into a better world, their presence and contribution is celebrated…et voila! I’ve grown my beard, packed my backpack to Syria to do my bit for the world (be this, the The Hereafter).

I’m someone who was not born in the UK, arrived into this country barely speaking English, and belong to a faith that currently strikes fear into the hearts of the majority (and, inevitably, heavily featured in research on UK social relations at this weekend’s conference). And I’m moved to find ways of listening. Otherwise, those of us working on social relations simply become a club, preaching to the converted.

As well as listening, we need to find means of expression to incorporate what we have heard, to check if we have understood correctly, and then to express where we see ourselves standing.
On a micro-scale, in comparison to this spiel I’m on now, I found therapy ways of speaking helpful in adopting language that facilitates dialogue amongst people of difference in a workshop setting, for example, speaking from the first person, if I was to say: I find foreign people rude. Instead of dumbing the speaker with societal judgement, we can use this as a great basis for dialogue: Really? I want to know more, please, tell me more! What’s the story behind the statement? I ask myself: What’s my experience of ‘rude’? If that’s rude, what’s ‘polite’? I ask: Does your ‘rude’ match mine? Have you experienced me as rude?

We validate that experience by listening, and witnessing the distress, anxiety or fear that can be behind underneath the statement. We can connect on a human level.
The person making the statement may not need validation. We, those interested in including that particular person, need to validate their statement for ourselves as facts. The belief is a fact we need to take into account. This may not be the same kind of quantifiable fact as the hard evidence, the statistical data and objective conclusions I heard so much of at this weekend, but it is a truth. A true belief this person may want to act on, like I act on my belief in ‘innate human creativity’, and in fact, this is largely how I do what I do, because of that belief, as well as a whole host of other hippy dippy believes that I resiliently stand by. How can I hope to be listened to when I cannot listen to others?

دعناية Syrian refugee camp

Whilst visiting family in Beirut, I was invited by a friend, Rabih Shibli, to visit one of the many Syrian refugee camps he and his team have been working on in Lebanon. Rabih runs a team at the department of Centre for Civic Engagement and Community Service (CCECS) at the American University of Beirut (AUB). I was curious to explore as I’ve wanted to run a pilot initiative for children there; workshops to service as an expressive and therapeutic outlet as well as instilling basic life skills relating to developing awareness of self and others, communication skills etc.

I joined a small CCECS team to De3naye Refugee camp in the Bekka Valley, stretching along the length of Lebanon to the East.  As the team went about their business, checking-up on newly installed toilet cubicles (yet to function without running water) and registering family members for clothes distribution, I chatted to the kids. I wouldn’t go into the terrible conditions of the campsite, with no electricity, running water, simple tents with minimal isolation from the chill of the mountainous air. Nor will I go into the strain this refugee crisis has had on Lebanon’s already unstable political and economic state, and the intrinsic politics and competition between the many, many NGOs, and the non-existent communication between local governors and NGOs/ charities functioning in the region.

I just spoke to the children, who quickly congregated around the team. I asked where they played, and they took me to a vacant lot, just opposite the campsite. I asked if they would like to show me some of the games they played, and with no more encouragement, they excitedly played as I photographed and asked questions. I recognised some of the games from my own childhood in Baghdad, like the tunnel/ train: two form an arch (tunnel), and the rest make a line (train) to go the tunnel, at intervals the train is stopped as one child is captured and asked a question by the tunnel; in this case, the trapped child was asked ‘a bowl or a plate?’, and depending on the answer, the child went behind of the two forming the arch. When all the children had chosen sides, then the ends with a tug-of-war.

I enjoyed my position as an outsider, not just as a visitor to the camps, but also as an Iraqi. There has been tension in some of the camps, between the neighbouring Lebanese host communities and those from the camps.Because of my Arabic accent, I am immediately asked where I am from, particularly by the adults, so I was glad to steer away from choosing sides.

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When talking to some to the adults. One parent, after tearfully sharing the difficulties she goes through on a daily basis, said: ‘We have so many foreigners who come over to take photographs and they promise this and that… and they all look so miserable. Their faces are so glum. So, if you don’t mind my saying, it is so nice to have you here, creating this merry atmosphere with the kids!’

I find it quite ironic that a refugee complains of the miserable appearance of their aid workers. This is why I find myself yapping on about my work being distinct from ‘charity’, as I feel the latter inevitably objectifies the very people targeted. There is an element of self-righteousness that I feel uncomfortable with. This inevitably applies to therapist-client and doctor-patient relationships. I work with those I want, and feel the need, to learn from. It is an exchange, a dialogue, and I hope, a valuable experience to be had by all parties involved. I trust that this is the attitude of the majority working in the Not-for-profit sector, and that my perceptions is more to do with public attitudes than those on-the-ground working on causes they believe in.

Nothing has come yet of my plans to work with these children, although I hear some of the biggest NGOs are about to put similar schemes into action, so that’s great news!

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Conventional Standards

True Story. 

…………………

Friend:     By the way, I’m dating someone.

Me:     That’s great! From work or on-line? 

Friend:     Neither really…

Me:     OK. How long has it been?

Friend:     Few weeks, I think. Actually, maybe four months.

Friend:     Wow! Well done! That’s very encouraging news!

Friend:     Yeh, well. You?

Me:    No.

Friend:     Yeh, you’re fussy. I’m trying to let go of my standards. 

Me:    Whatever you do, don’t tell her that.  

…………………

End. 

Sketched in Wales

One of a collection of sketches made at an artist’s retreat in Wales, inspired by watching others work to explore their muddy waters.

Sketched in Wales

I wrote a more characteristically detailed post, deleted it and so am just sharing a picture, for a change.

Nursery: mini ode to career mom

The fact that my own mother is a career mom has been eating at me, after my last post. This week, she won an ‘Architecture and Construction award’, for her tireless work in landscape design and eco-sustainability in the Middle East, and I am tremendously proud of her.

It is a pleasure to hold this pride. To recognise that my mother is not mine and my brother’s alone: she is her own person. We share her with her many students, of over thirty years of teaching in Baghdad and Beirut, and her many worthwhile projects.

My mother holds more respect for me, as an adult, than the majority of Arab moms for their ‘children’ (especially their daughters). She does not meddle and emotionally blackmail me to ring her daily- I phone because I want to- nor into getting married to manifest a brood, nor does she criticise what she does not understand. And these, largely, I put down to the fact that she has maintained possession of her own life. She has better things to do than attempt to live her life through me. And for this I am truly grateful.

Also, for eleven years, my single-parent mother did the job of three people, maintaining her teaching post, private practise and two kids. Pretty impressive, no?

And, yes, I was in a nursery from three years or younger, and in 1980’s Baghdad there were no dance or drama classes. Teachers kissed their favourite kiddies on the lips- my mother had to wipe lipstick off my face at the end of each day- and nap time took up three quarters of the day. I remember the misery of pretending to be asleep for what seemed like eternity.

As a child I felt the urgency of tasks, of the planned day to fit a grander scheme. We may have been an exception in Iraq, but here, a child’s day is scheduled to the brim. My happiest memories were of the rare and random, less-scheduled activities of pottering around in the garden, or helping in the kitchen. Even the night war sirens weren’t too bad, as these meant an escape from bedtime and extra time in our little family (including the dog), trapped in the basement for some ‘quality time’.

So the nursery kiddies here are privileged, as I was relatively in Baghdad, compared to today’s orphan and street kids all over the world (I’m thinking Basra, because of my short time there).

Rationale aside, I still feel sadness for the kids, whoever those may be, whose simple need for love is left half-met.

Nursery: love hungry children

So in an attempt to get back into blogging, I’m doing a quickie whilst sleepless at 3am.

Much is fizzing in my head, and much has buzzed since my last obese-sized blog, though right now, I want to talk nurseries.

This week, with a friend’s drama company, I facilitated drama workshops at four different nurseries in London. It was to train me up as potential ‘sick cover’ and I agreed to do it part as favour, and part to experience something new. Until a few days ago, I’d never stayed in a room with kiddiewinks from 2 to 5 years old (I’d usually exit the space to preserve what little sanity I’ve held onto!).

It was fun. Fun and funny. Endearing, and at times, sickly sweet. Always with life’s brightness emanating from their little hungry eyes. Even those who- how shall I put it?- were a little more dreamy than bright, were just as wondrous. In so many ways, truly a life enhancing experience for me.

And anyone who knows me, knows I’m not a big kiddie person. I love and leave ’em, which is why I’ve not yet been tempted to pop a few myself.

However, what’s stayed with me, at the end of this week, is sadness.

Beautiful and unique creatures, every one of them, and yet, those who had brought them into the world, have chosen to hand them over to strangers for the majority of the day.

As far as I can tell, from my brief time at each nursery, the nursery staff were all well-meaning carers. Still, the trait most shared by the kids was neediness.

A need for attention, affection, and most of all, for love.

I was a relative stranger- at each nursery for one 30 minute session only- and yet at every stop, I had children holding my hand, wanting to share stories and to cuddle. How did they trust me so quickly, when I’d had so little time with them? Then I wondered, do they have a choice?

I read a postgrad Gestalt psychotherapy thesis on refugee children, in camps without their parents; it is common for those who have had to rely on the help and support of strangers to be less aware of personal boundaries, to repress the risks of entrusting at a very early stage, as most have had little choice in the matter. They have to trust to survive.

I wondered, does this notion apply to nurseries? The neediest children were so eager to please, be helpful and sweet. To make themselves as attractive to those strangers as possible. After all, mommy might love them, but mommy’s not here, so they best get on with whoever else is in control.

It struck me of little control these kids have. They are powerless.

Where are the parents? Is everyone out developing their careers? Precariously juggling motherhood on the corporate ladder?

These nurseries were not for those struggling financially, so I find it hard to imagine mommy and daddy are laying bricks to bring home a tin of sardines, whilst kiddies learned to dance, sing and be scary aliens (AKA drama).

And what about boarding schools from six years or younger? Is the brand name and education worth the price?

I am judging, which is unfair on many levels, and what I experienced this week felt unfair too. These kids may be a step ahead in our over-institutionalised world, and they will join the ranks of those who are left hungry for more. If the urges are not met now, at this early and fundamental stage, these kiddies will soon turn into searching adults.

At one nursery there was a mother with her two year old girl, and that seemed to strike an interesting pattern. The child was exposed to the goodness of being out in the world, whilst having her mom as a solid support (not just socially but physically too).

So these kiddies continue to search for love, I wish them a creative and fruitful journey, whatever they may find.

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Boundaries & self-support

I want to come back to this blog, as the theme of boundaries, in the form of ‘containment’, has come back in my therapy process (probably, it never left!).

Self-support- knowing what I need and how to get it- is key in leading a healthy and fruitful way of being in the world. It can be as simple as recognising the feeling of being tired and being able to take adequate rest, to the ability to gauge how far to challenge yourself, when to say ‘stop!’ when you’ve had enough.

A month or so after my last post, I had a difficult, if somewhat traumatic, incident in my Gestalt therapy training. As an experiential course, and being new to psychotherapy, there is always a risk of misjudgement, be it from my or/ and the therapy tutor’s part. In my case it may have been a combination of both. I wouldn’t go into the incident here, except to say the theme of containment had a strong part to play there too; gauging how far I can go is part of my own self-support mechanism. Ultimately, it is my responsibility to say ‘Stop!’.

At its core, Gestalt therapy relies on the client’s intrinsic orientation towards health, so the client holds the key to their own well being. A therapist invites the client to test personal boundaries, as these inevitably orchestrates habitual behaviour patterns. Our habitual responses are in place as these were once necessary to deal with circumstances in our past, and our boundaries too have been set due to our life experiences thus far. These, however, may have little relevance to the client’s life in the here-and-now. So, to help access the client’s intrinsic healthy self-regulation mechanism, the therapist invites the client to becomes aware of fixed behaviour patterns and to experiment with different ways of being. To personally develop, we must take risks, and trust we would grow and learn from the potential pain (and oh my golly gosh, can it be painful!). Rather than the fixed patterns, we aim for a healthy and flexible response, and I love my main tutor therapist, Kay Lynn, saying: Responsibility in Gestalt is the client’s response-ability, i.e., their ability to respond in a creative and diverse way to any given situation. And choosing not to go deeper, or to get entangled in a destructive pattern, and to take risks, is all part of the process.

In my case, coming out of that period of painful recovery was a new lease of life. As I feel different, I see the world differently. This doesn’t become a Disney happy ending, and in fact, as long as I’m alive, the process never really ends!

The repercussions of realigning personal boundaries has had an effect on every aspect of my life. I chose to remove myself from my usual digital saturation, to have more one-to-one contact with a select few friends, and genuinely quiet time alone. I left Facebook, limited my Tweets and generally chose not to be in touch with people I don’t really know, feel good around and trust. That’s easier said than done. I put on a work hat to function with colleagues, and sometimes family, and to be functional and fulfil some of life’s chores and responsibilities.
Now, well, my ‘traumatic’ incident from a couple of months ago seems a lifetime away. And still, somehow, I find different layers to my experience of it in the here-and-now.

I had a drastic haircut. It’s seemingly superficial, even a cliche, and yet a risk in itself.

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And right NOW now, I have two final assignments for my course, which I am ridiculously behind in, as it reaches its end. I applied to do the one-year option, as opposed to the five year training as a therapist, and I admit I am tempted to continue to the second year. I know I do not want to be a therapist, as I agree with Fritz Perls in his criticism of the limitations of verbal articulation, and would want to leave more of the creative exercises to stand on their own merit, without being explained away in therapy. And yet, I am very tempted to do a second year, as I feel I have barely scratched the surface with Gestalt.

On a darker note, I always somewhat distrusted doctors, as I believe they need to de-humanise a patient to diagnose them; to see the pattern of symptoms, solve the puzzle and cure an illness. There are exceptions to this, and I enjoyed reading a transcript of Dr Barry Bub’s talk on integrating Gestalt in medicine http://www.processmedicine.com/presentations.htm.

In terms of therapists, I believe the latter process is reversed: a therapist needs to near de-humanise themselves in order to be totally present for the client. In the training, you work on your issues, so you recognise and contain them, and resist their entanglement with the client’s.
Both these mechanisms are useful, and arguably essential, and yet, I do not know if I want to be part of that system. I’d rather be the messy client, wrestling with life’s dilemmas, crying, deflecting with an armour of humour, constantly testing boundaries (I gave my therapist chocolates!), than the omnipresent therapist. Even as a client, I’ve decided to have a decent break. It’s also hard work.
On that note, I will focus on my neglected assignments. Was my posting a blog, mere resistance to working? Does it matter? Not in this moment.

3 days in Basra

After the aforementioned trip to Basra, I arrived safely home Monday afternoon and this is the first time I share my experience in writing. A rare feat for me, as I always manage an email or a journal entry along the way. This time, we had an exceptionally hectic three days; talking some 48 hour for my first day, with overnight travel, and twenty hours the second!

day 1

First thing that comes to mind is arriving into Basra International airport at 07:30, greeted by Nadwa (head of Living Light International organisation) and Abu Haidar, the new driver assigned to her by Basra’s governor; who is also housing Nadwa and I in the charming and (more important) secure guest house. We drove to al-Shanasheel area. The name comes from the old houses, known as shanasheel/ شناشيل, which are characteristic of Basra’s vernacular architecture. The area is beautiful, even if these delicate Ottoman structures are largely dilapidated, they are generally still lived in.

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We’d gone to Shanasheel to visit the archaeology museum- not for its artefacts of which there are none left after the 2003 Gulf War looting- but for its garden. Formally a littered area, it has recently been cleaned by Nadwa and the Municipality of Basra; ‘we couldn’t see the ground for the rubbish heaps!’, said Abu Haidar.
On the streets, I was glad to see rubbish bins placed to help deal with the ongoing litter problem.
‘People don’t have any respect for public spaces’, said Abu Haidar, ‘look, here’s a bin we installed last week, with rubbish all around it!’.

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It was too early for the museum, but I had a chance to visit it on the third and final day (photo’s below).

Saemar/ سيمر was our next stop. An impoverished area, though for me, it was my first glimpse into Basra’s quotidien life. We met a few children, who’d worked with Nadwa on the ‘I am the hope’ film, and who then tagged along, curious as to my fascination with their everyday environment.

We came across a man having his haircut, the bakers making flat bread in the kiln, the gas-man on his donkey cart, with a cigarette between his lips, the shy metallurgist, and even a random passerby who insisted I take his photograph and his full name.

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And of course the shanasheel houses. Some had been amputated and replaced by modern metal windows, others were sealed with wood, some were left to rot…I don’t have a sentimental attachment to these, and I’m more aware of the people suffering than their buildings, but it is sad to witness their decay. My 1960’s block of flats in London is a listed building, and these historic, majestic structures are left to rot.

There are so many stray dogs and cats, and a few times I tried to feed them- putting a morsel of bread nearby- and they bolt As fast as their fury legs can carry them. I dread to think of the suffering they have experienced.

To Abu Haidar, I’d replied:
‘We don’t have respect for one another, why would we have respect for public spaces?’.

Fayiz, the film director arrived, and we were all invited into an open office-y room by a sweet old man, who served us tea, and after Fayiz shared his vision for the film with me, I had a chance to listen to the old man reminisce about the olden days.

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‘Girls didn’t walk around covered from head to toe, hiding themselves, like they do now. They wore skirts up to here’, marking his upper thigh, ‘and we didn’t differentiate like we do now, between Sunni, Shi’i, Christian..we were all living together as one. I had Christian neighbours, and even Jewish, and we were all brothers and sisters. We did not have these divisions. This neighbourhood was mixed and yet was one. Now, well, it’s all different.’
I asked if there are still Christian families living in the area.
‘Of course, yes, but only a few. They left mostly. Anyone who has had the opportunity to leave, has left. Only old people have stayed. The young ones leave to find a better life. It was all different before…’
I asked what he thought made these divisions, he lowered his voice:
‘Religion. It is religion that has divided everyone. Although having faith in God is akin to having faith in humanity and should bring people closer, but this modern-day religion segregates women and divides people’.

I wanted to stay and chat, to meet more of his elderly friends, but I was summoned to join Nadwa and Fayiz.

We had a very long wait then, and after some two hours of faffing, being with children and being asked questions, I was bored. Bored and exhausted from my overnight flight.
I went into Umm Karrar’s house, a warm and generous lady whose front yard we were squatting in, and asked if I could nap on her living room sofa.
She was so glad, and ran up to get a blanket:
‘This is a brand new blanket, so you can be sure it’s clean…yes, you look very tired and pale, you’ll do well to have a lay-down’.
Her two daughters, Fatma and Zainab, brought pillows and closed the curtains.
Their living room was a generous size, quite simple and, as I lay down, realised it overlooks the yard area where all the kids and camera crew were…so I could hear, on repeat, the two main songs in the musical film with a karaoke-esque chorus of screaming children.
I remember my body’s mix of exhaustion and frustration manifesting in nervous jitters.
I finally put on my i-Pod, with a dhikr/ ذكر (meditation chanting) of al-Hadi/ الهادي, and I proceeded to breath and silently chant along with the live recording. Didn’t sleep, but the jitters settled.

No one came to fetch me, so I got up, chatted to Fatma and Zainab. Fatma said they are making rice and fried fish for us- needless to say I was starving by that point, though I’d feel guilty eating at theirs, because we’re a big posse and they have limited resources- and Zainab showed me her drawings. The drawings were of fashion designs, and oddly enough, Samar, one of the main volunteers with us, had showed me her fashion design drawings earlier. And these, apart from the quality of materials, were near identical- wish I took photo’s now- They were all Barbie-eque figures with exposed cleavages and prom dress costumes. Ironic as these gals all wear head-scarves and wouldn’t dare show a bit of neck, let alone a bulging boob…

Side track: as a teenager I was invited by a Sudanese friend to accompany her to a Saudi Arabian wedding, at London’s Dorchester no less. I arrived into a big hall of the most florid coloured ball-gowns, with the bulgiest of bossoms, exposed backs and poofed-up hairdo’s. At one point, whispering revealed that the groom and his father will be coming in for photo’s.
My friend asked me to wear my cardigan- even though knowing it was a Saudi wedding, I’d worn a below-the-knee dress with long sleeves- in the few seconds it had taken for me to put on my cardi, the room had transformed into black robes with many pairs of beady black eyes. Only the bride was left in her white meringue, posing for photo’s with her groom and father-in-law.

So the Basra girls’ drawings made me wonder of the segregated sexes culture that is now prevalent in Iraq.

*******

More waiting followed until we were told the filming will take place at an archaeological site.
I was asked to change my stripey top, as it doesn’t do well on-screen, and baggy trousers, because they look scruffy. I was asked what other clothes I had with me:
‘one other, baggier, pair of trousers and one t-shirt’.
No one was impressed with my frugal packing.
My bag was filled workshop materials, namely, egg shakers, sketch pads and pencils, and silk veils for meditation.

At the archaeological site, they preceded to film the scenario. I wouldn’t go into it here, as yet again, this is proving to be the mother of all posts, suffice to say, in the film, I lead an excavation, which then transforms into the workshop space.

*******

An incident with a policeman and soldiers later, and we finally drove home.
I was so shattered, I couldn’t even have a de-brief with Nadwa. I just remember setting my alarm for the next day, at 2:30am, and saying a brief prayer of thanks, as I fell asleep.

day 2

So 2:30am, I woke, unpacked, dressed, ate an energy bar and headed out to meet Nadwa. The early start was to catch the sunrise at the tamr l’Sihi/ الطمر الصحي, the dumpyard area, where some of the workshop children lived. This is where I’d be dressed as Sumerian Queen Shab’at, and where digital effects will be added to transform the dumpyard into the ancient city of Ur.

I’m keeping an open mind.

All the people, who were meant to meet Nadwa and me at the mayor’s guesthpuse/ دار الاستراحة, were late. All apart from Nadwa’s main man, the wonderful Husam. We waited outside in the cool darkness.
There was much expression of anger and frustration from Nadwa; whose face, lit by her mobile phone, is the only visible feature in the photo.

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Finally, the troops were gathered, apart from the director, and we arrived at the dumpyard by 4:45am.

Samar, who had volunteered to dress and do my make-up, was very much on the ball. We had nowhere to dress apart from a wooden warden’s room, without light or heater. It was windy, cloudy and cold. So, with a donated mobile phone’s light, we began to get into costume.

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Samar had spent the previous evening trying on the costume- designed by Ziyad, a costume designer with an interested in historic costume- and choosing from her own collection of ‘faux-bijoux’ to glam me in. I think, given the conditions, she did an incredible job. She’s a Human Resources manager in her daytime job…I was very impressed.

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When all the dumpyard filming was done, I gave out chocolates to the kids- apart from workshop material, I brought a lot of chocolate for the kiddiwinks- and we drove for lunch.

I was so glad to rid myself of the uncomfortable head-vice of a crown. There was a metal clip, holding the three protruding flower-y things up, that literally dug into my brain. Horrid.

At al-Arnab al-dhahik/ الأرنب الضاحك (the laughing rabbit) I had my first Iraqi shawarma qus/ قص (an Enlish ‘keebab’) in19 years! The taste was different than the Lebanese version because of the date vinegar pickles and amba/ عمبه (a kind of relish). Washed down with a bottle of shineena/ شنينة (a savoury yoghurt drink), I felt ready for a nap.

I took a photo of the man making kebabs (the minced meat on a skewer kind, not the English keebab). I was given a naturak chewing gum to chew, which was very bitter, so I must have had an odd expression on my face. He asked me if I liked it, and I said I preferred mastic gum/ علك ماء. He asked if I’d be visiting again the following day, so he can get me some mastic gum. I said I had no idea what the plans for, and thanked him for the generous offer. Never seizes to astound me how randomly generous and thoughtful people can be here.

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After some strong Iraqi tea, served with two generous spoons of sugar, in the traditional dainty gold-rimmed istikans, we drove to the Sheraton Hotel to continue the filming. I waited with some of the volunteers, as Nadwa, Husam and Abu Haidar went to pick up the Saemar kids.

*******

Meanwhile, I was introduced to the head of the local drama school, and two tutors. They asked about the workshop, and told me a little about the acting exercises they’ve been experimenting with. Sounded very Russian to me, and reminded me of some of the stuff I did in Moscow’s Boris Shukin Institute, as part of my own drama school training. I was impressed and intrigued to hear more. Sadly, I only had some fifteen minutes with them, as Nadwa and the kids arrived so returned to work. They asked if I’d be interested in visiting, with the intention of giving the student a specific workshop for them; I said I’d love to on my next visit. God willing.

*******

For the second part of the filming, I was asked to lead the workshop, and that the camera crew would film aspects of it. They will have to stop me to take different shots, close-ups and whatnot.

This lasted for some three hours, and in many ways, was a lot harder than just running an ordinary workshop.
The workshop wasn’t closed, and literally people walked in/ out, chatted in loud voices, more volunteers walked in to enthusiastically greet the kids…at one point, a tray of sandwiches was brought in, and the loitering crowd dug in as they chatted and watched the workshop.
Also, I did not want the kids to mindlessly to as they are told, to pretend for the camera- as they had done the day before at the archaeological site- so my challenge was to be fully in control, to carefully manipulate the workshop activities for the director’s filming demands. This is very different to how I’d previously led workshops in Basra.
At one point, maybe for a straight fifteen minutes, we all maintained a variation on basic hand movement- a gesture suggested by the director to symbolise imagination- so the camera can zoom in on the 14 or so participants. I was very impressed with how they maintained their focus.

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When my bit was over, instead of the usual checking-out, where everyone has an opportunity to share reflections on their experience, everyone was unleashed to play with confetti- used in the filming at some point- eat their sandwiches, play fight, as I quietly took my sandwich and water to vegetate on my own in a corner. Rocking myself like a woman in bedlam…no, I wasn’t that bad.
I did have to excuse myself from anyone who came to chit chat, ‘I’m recharging’ I mocked, though I must have looked terrible as all looked a tad worried and gladly gave me my space.

After some ten minutes, the kids were collected by Nadwa and Husam, to be returned to their respective homes, and I went back into make-up and the head-vice, AKA Queen Shab’at’s crown, to complete the filming.

I walked, as regally as I could, through the Sheraton, as visitors requested to take photo’s with the dolled-up woman in gold. This bit was surreal and strangely enjoyable. I was also relaxed as I knew I only had to walk down the main steps a few times with the green blanket thingamabob held up behind me, for the digital post-prod shenanigans.

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We were done by 22:30. Literally a 20-hour day. Yet again, I went on auto-pilot, withdrawing into myself, as I was manoeuvred out of my costume and face, and into the van heading to my blissful bed.

day 3

For the third day, I didn’t need to be ready until 9am. However, a beautiful stream of sunshine had flooded the room to wake me up before 7am. I was glad to get up, shower, in a traditional style Eastern bathroom (why didn’t I take a photo?!) and just stretched in the sunny patches on the floor, like my cat Pushkin does in our flat in London.

Nadwa made her way to my room a little before 9, sat on my bed and proceeded to nibble on chocolate and coyly say:
‘I don’t feel like working today…I’m thinking, I’ve never done any sight seeing in Basra, the whole time I’ve been coming here, not once have I take a little break to look around… Fayiz wanted to film on a boat, but we’ve not managed to hire one, and he’s not mentioned what his plans are for today, so why should we aimlessly wait? Besides, he did say he got all the main shots he needed from you…I’m tired and seeing you’re here, I fancy a change…what do you say?’

I suspected that Samar, the volunteer who had done my make-up, might have mentioned it was my birthday that day. I only mentioned it to Samar to establish an age divide, a boundary between us, when she was getting a little too stroppy with stress and fatigue. I was exactly ten years older than her- I still find that hard to believe I could be ten years older than a grown and capable woman!

So a part of me wanted to insist that we work. The other part fantasised about a road trip across Basra, eating masgoof (I’d yet to eat one proper hot meal in Basra!) and maybe even a swim in the river! Also, regardless if Nadwa was just being kind and thoughtful towards me or actually wanted a break, I felt it would do her good to take a little breather. No one would think it to look at her, but Nadwa has her fair share of health concerns. I am still in awe by how she manages to energise and enthuse herself for all her non-stop work, and how not a single grumble escapes her lips. I’m in awe.

So we decided to be, as much as possible, on our own- including our chaperones, Husam and Abu Haidar, of course- but had no idea where we might go.

We met up with Husam, had a logistical chat, to work through the options, and finally decided to go to Adam’s Tree- an ancient tree, supposedly planted by Abraham, which is used to make dhikr/ and al-Qurna, the meeting point of the tigris and euphrates rivers. The marshes would have taken a lot longer, and we wanted to be back in time for possible more filming.

We made a quick stop at the archaeological museum, to inspect the garden, and that’s when I took the photo’s.

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We grabbed a falafel sandwich, to eat in the car, and who was to come running over to us? the kebab man! he had brought some mastic gum for me. Isn’t that incredible?

With satisfied stomachs, we headed off on our road trip.

Sounds like I could yap onto another couple of pages, but the time was spent chatting in the car, stopping to take pics, chatting some more, and generally switching off. Very much needed. It felt good to connect with Nadwa a little more personally and to just chat with Husam, and get an inkling of life in Basra and differences in social norms and attitudes.

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*******

After a phone chat with Fayiz, we were asked to rush back before sunset, to do more filming.

We picked up a handful of kids from Christian families. The director and Nadwa were keen to have kids representing a wide mix of Basra’s ethnic and religious population- what’s left of its former diverse glory- as the organisation doesn’t target any one group of people.

The second half of the day was spent filming, first on a boat with the kids and the second at the Sheraton Hotel.

After the boat, we had leblebe/ لبلبي a sort of boiled chickpeas individually seasoned with lemon juice and hot sauce. Delicious. I had three bowls.
It was wonderful to sit overlooking the Arab Gulf, and for everyone, child and adult alike, to enjoy bowls of this street food.

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At the hotel, I was asked to mime playing the violin, as myself, as if I’m teaching the kids how to play in a workshop. I refused, and I’m unsure why, but it felt fake and unnecessary. My inner judgemental voice accused me of being a ‘difficult actor’- ‘an actor is a doer, not a thinker’, a director once told me, and our drama school motto was ‘an actor is a story seller’- and a tinge of guilt crept in. I struggled with the profession of acting as it seemed to constantly question and impede on my sense of integrity. I stuck to my decision, and fortunately I wasn’t pressured.

I was asked to play the piano with the kids, and although I can’t play tunes, I was happy to mess about. I quietly did my own eccentric brand of improvised operatic singing with random piano playing-  I did this for comic effect at a friend’s civil partnership last year- which the kids seemed to enjoy. I was mean enough to use it manipulate the kids’ good behaviour: ‘I will only sing if everyone is quiet and doesn’t bang on the piano’ etc. Very un-Gestalt therapy of me!

I then asked them to echo, and so we, as quietly as we could, in the hotel foyer, sang together. Once again, I wished I was running a proper workshop with them.

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Finally, when all the filming was done. The kids had their sandwiches, followed by some chocolates from yours truly.

I bid farewell to the filming crew at the hotel, as we took the kids and ourselves home.

homeward bound

The next morning, Abu Haidar picked Nadwa and me up bright and early for my 08:30 flight. We had falafel sandwiches for breakfast- I should say that Nadwa is vegetarian, and so her diet in Basra is relatively limited, and as you can read, falafel sarnies are a common feature- we drank some tea, all in the van, and Abu Haidar got me to try a simple, sweetened bread with sesame, which name escapes me right now…

At home in London, three days later, I’m about to heat some of that sweet bread, to munch on with black tea for breakfast, as I attempt to round up and conclude this particularly massive post.

*******

Believe it or not, I skimmed in parts, and still these seem far too many pages for a blog post, or are they? Not sure if that would make much of a difference to me now.

Alas, any questions or comments are welcome. And do please put them on the blog-site itself, as I kept getting beautiful emails and tweets, with some interesting discussions too, but would love to share these on the blog site itself, so if you feel able, do please share your thoughts on this site.